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Climbing at the Red River Gorge – by Jodye Boam

Recently a few Earth Treks Timonium and Earth Treks Golden staff got together and decided to head out for a climbing trip to the Red River Gorge.

Here is Jodye Boam’s blog about their trip! Enjoy the blog and amazing photos!

Climbing in Red River Gorge

by Jodye Boam, Earth Treks Timonium
Retail Assistant/Shift Supervisor

Red River Gorge 2014 Earth Treks Staff 1

Rainy is the first word I can think of to sum up our climbing trip to the Red River Gorge in October. But contrary to popular belief, rain does not ruin a climbing trip (condensation, on the other hand, is en entirely different beast). At least not with a crew as psyched as ours. Included in the line up were Earth Treks all-stars Matt and Charlotte Bosley, Mike Hauck, and myself, as well as Justin Smith, Sam Voso, and Adam Pettee.

Red River Gorge 2014 Earth Treks Staff 2

We all stayed in a cozy cabin that had a wonderful surprise in store for us. One particular night, while we were relaxing in the hot tub (!) it started to rain sideways. Booms of thunder were punctuated by screams of terror as we all sprinted into the safety of the cabin. To say we were surprised that it was just as wet inside as it was outside would be an understatement. Rain was pouring in through our (apparently unsealed) windows, soaking everything on the left side of the house. Don’t worry, though: when we called the cabin rental agency, they confirmed that it was, in fact, going to rain again the following day, and that they’d send up plenty of towels for us to clean up with.

Red River Gorge 2014 Earth Treks Staff 3

Weather aside, we had 10 full days ahead of us, and no set agenda. We took plenty of time to climb the classics, as well as explore routes we’d always swept past, and found some real gems along the way. Thank goodness for four wheel drive; most of our time was spent in the depths of PMRP, where, it seems, the climbing potential expands every time we return.

 

Red River Gorge 2014 Earth Treks Staff 4

Purgatory, home of the classics Lucifer 5.14c, as well as Paradise Lost 5.13a was one of the first destinations on our list. We found great warm-ups just around the corner. In perfectly pumpy Red River Gorge style, the holds were great and the angle was steep, which provided fun and interesting climbing for everyone. After a sufficient warm-up, Matt put in great work on Dracula ’04, being hindered not by the pump, but by that pesky condensation we talked about earlier. Meanwhile, Justin hopped on Paradise Lost, a project he had committed to on our last trip to the Red. After a few days of work, a break in the weather, and a send train led by none other and Anna Stohr, Justin was able to send!

Red River Gorge 2014 Earth Treks Staff 5

Running with the theme of hard sends, Mike found his project, Triple-Sec (aka 50 Bucks) 5.12d, at The Sanctuary in the always beautiful Muir Valley. Mike’s send of this seemingly blank face, sprinkled with a few crimps and pockets, leading to a crux, then to a no-hands-rest, followed by another crux, was truly inspiring.

 

Red River Gorge 2014 Earth Treks Staff 6

Another fine gem in PMRP was Random Precision, one of the few vertical climbs in the entire Red River Gorge. This was one of my absolute favorite climbs of the trip, and one I’d surely come back to again.

 

Red River Gorge 2014 Earth Treks Staff 7

Drive-By is another crag we found ourselves at time and again. With climbs like Breakfast Burrito, Fire and Brimstone, Naked Lunch, and Whip Stocking, lined up perfectly in a row, it was hard to stay away. After we had all tried nearly every classic moderate Drive-By had to offer, we made our way down the line and eventually came to the super-classic 5.14c Kaleidoscope. You know the saying: last go, best go. Matt punctuated the trip perfectly with a send on the very last day!

SCS Comp on May 10th at Earth Treks Rockville – Wall Closures and Running Order

Poster for Website

The Sport Climbing Series (SCS) Capital Regional Championships will be taking place at Earth Treks Climbing Centers Rockville, MD this Saturday May 10th.

Good luck to all participants!

Click here to download a PDF of the Running Order

Please note that we will have some wall closures while the comp is underway and on the day of the competition as well.

For up to date info you can check our Earth Treks Rockville Facebook page as we will be posting the latest news and photos on comp day. #SCSCompET

Please see below for closures.

 

 

Days Leading into the Comp closure schedule days:
ROPED CORRIDOR

Earth Treks Rockville Roped Corridor
-Monday, May 5th ALL DAY
-Tuesday, May 6th – Until 4pm
-Wednesday/Thursday/Friday – Limited climbing after 3pm

 

Day of Comp closures:
-Saturday, May 10th – Roped Corridor CLOSED all day.
-Old side BOULDERING and INSTRUCTIONAL ROOMS – CLOSED all day.

Instructional Roomold bouldering side rockville 1old bouldering side rockville 2

We apologize for any inconvenience and appreciate your understanding.

 

Parking:

SCS_Comp 2014 Parking_web large map

Earth Treks Rockville to host the SCS Regional Championship on May 10th, 2014. Read more >

Earth Treks Rockville is excited to be hosting SCS Regional Championship on May 10th.

Sport Climbing Series Regional Championships

Location:
Earth Treks –Rockville MD.
Click here for directions 

Format:
Single round Onsite Sport competition having 3 climbs per age/gender category.
Single round Speed competition.

Registration:

Registration has closed, but come watch the climbers on May 10th!


Timeline
:
8:00am  Isolation Opens for ALL climbers
9:00am  Isolation Closes for ALL climbers
9:05am  Climber Rules Meeting, Judges Meeting
9:30am  Route Previews
10:00am  Climbing Begins
2:00pm  Sport Climbing Ends
3:00pm  Speed Climbing Ends
3:30pm  Awards

Speed for each category will begin 30 minutes following that category’s conclusion of their Sport climbing round.  Estimated Speed start times are below.  Final Speed start times will be posted prior to the event.

Estimated Speed start times:
11:45am – MD
12:00pm – FC
12:15pm – FJR, FB, MC
12:30pm – MA, MJR
12:45pm – MB, FD
1:15pm – FA

Running Order:
Running Order PDF Download

Volunteers:
We are still in need of volunteers.  If you would like to be a volunteer judge, belayer, isolation monitor, or scoring assistant; please contact Ex Pow-anpongkul at ex@earthtreksclimbing.com if you are able to help out.

Parking:
Parking in Rockville can be a bit tight.  But other local businesses have offered their lots for us.  The high school across the street should be available, as they are not hosting any activities that day.  The Sandy Spring Bank is available after 12pm. There is also street parking on Fleet St and Mt. Vernon St. (along the side of the car dealership).

See map for available parking areas on the day of the event 

SCS_Comp 2014 Parking_web large map

 Closures

Days Leading into the Comp closure schedule days:
ROPED CORRIDOR

Earth Treks Rockville Roped Corridor
-Monday, May 5th ALL DAY
-Tuesday, May 6th – Until 4pm
-Wednesday/Thursday/Friday – Limited climbing after 3pm

 

Day of Comp closures:
-Saturday, May 10th – Roped Corridor CLOSED all day.
-Old side BOULDERING and INSTRUCTIONAL ROOMS – CLOSED all day.

Instructional Roomold bouldering side rockville 1old bouldering side rockville 2

We apologize for any inconvenience and appreciate your understanding.